Your sunscreen questions, answered.
Why sunscreens pill, how to prevent clogged pores, and more.
Today’s post is kindly sponsored by Eighth Day. One of my biggest goals is to make Fun Little Treat my main focus, so I can spend more time writing about the things I love and care deeply about. Sponsorships like this help bring me one step closer to that dream.
Every summer, the same wave rolls in: texts from friends, utterly panicked, asking if such-and-such sunscreen is good, comments on posts like “does this break you out??”, and of course, the eternal struggle of finding one that doesn’t pill under makeup. And I really do sympathize! Sunscreen is weirdly intimidating for something we’re supposed to wear every single day.
I’ve always been aware that people get a little paranoid about SPF—what ingredients are comedogenic, which formula is best for your skin, and what’s actually good enough to trust when you’re outdoors more often. So this year, for National Sunscreen Awareness Day, I wanted to give you answers, straight from a dermatologist who is extremely passionate about sunscreen.
Meet Dr. Antony Nakhla, a dermatologic and reconstructive surgeon who specializes in skin cancer treatment and micrographic surgery who has treated over 10,000 patients. I sat down with him to talk about all things sunscreen: how much you really need, what to look for if you’re breakout-prone, and how he wanted to create his own sunscreen with Eighth Day in order to change the way people wear SPF daily.
I usually tell people to use the same amount of sunscreen every day, rain or shine, because it takes the guesswork out of the equation and helps build a good habit. So that leads me to my first question, how much sunscreen should people be using every day?
For the face, it’s about two fingers worth or enough to fill a teaspoon. For the body, it’s a full ounce or a shot glass. SPF is dose dependent, so you need to apply enough to get protection.
We love both mineral and chemical sunscreens here at Fun Little Treat. I know you love a mineral sunscreen. What kind of skin types can benefit specifically from a mineral sunscreen?
Mineral SPFs are great for sensitive skin, because zinc has a lot of calming benefits. It’s very gentle and non-irritating. The real challenge with zinc-only SPFs is they often leave a white cast, which is something we really wanted to address when we were formulating our sunscreen.
We made Eighth Day’s Rejuvenating Moisturizing Primer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 with natural pigments to neutralize the white cast for all skin types and tones, as I wanted everyone to be able to use it.
Safety is also paramount, of course, so I formulated our sunscreen without nano-particles, which are micronized forms of mineral ingredients like zinc oxide.
My friends who have acne are terrified of sunscreen. What is it about sunscreens that makes people break out?
There's a well-established connection between heat and acne, often manifesting as those frustrating seasonal breakouts. Warmer temperatures and increased humidity create a perfect storm: they encourage more sweat and sebum production, which, when mixed with sunscreen and environmental debris, can clog pores.
Other conditions induced by heat, like miliaria (a.k.a. heat rash) -a skin condition characterized by small, itchy, red or white bumps that appear when sweat glands become blocked- can also be confused with acne.
Cleansing is also a very important part of making sure your sunscreen doesn’t break you out.
Yes! I’ve noticed I almost never break out when I’m really, extra diligent about washing my face. What tips do you have to ensure we are removing sunscreen thoroughly?
You want to cleanse thoroughly morning and night using lukewarm water, not hot water, because that can dry out your skin and disrupt the skin barrier. If you are wearing makeup, you'll need a specific makeup remover or micellar water before you cleanse your skin, as it really helps remove that first layer of makeup and break down your sunscreen. This is incredibly important. Double cleansing also works for this. I always remind patients, especially those that may be acne prone, not to forget their neck and jawline as these areas are prone to clogged pores.
Lastly, you'll want to pat dry (instead of rubbing, pulling at your skin) with a clean towel or disposable skin towels.
My biggest issue with sunscreen is that it makes my makeup pill or crease. It makes me not want to wear my sunscreen, even though I know I have to! How can I prevent that from happening?
Many SPFs simply aren’t elegant to use. I spent years perfecting our Rejuvenating Moisturizing Primer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 so it feels silky, preps skin for makeup, and lays well without pilling.
To avoid pilling, you should make sure your skin is properly exfoliated. I strongly prefer a chemical exfoliator, like Eighth Day’s Resurfacing Tonic, which has potent levels of lactic and glycolic acid. Physical exfoliators can create small tears disrupting your skin barrier, so I’m not a huge fan.
You'll also want to ensure that you allow products to set and dry, waiting a few seconds before moving to the next step—this can really help avoid pilling. If all else fails and pilling persists, it is time to change up your products.
What’s the deal with SPF in makeup? And is reapplying sunscreen throughout the day really that important?
The challenge is that makeup with SPF can create a false sense of security, as most people don’t apply enough of it to be properly effective.
The best thing you can do is stay out of the sun, particularly during peak hours: The sun's rays are most intense between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. Whenever possible, seek shade. This simple habit can significantly reduce your cumulative UV exposure over time. Protective layers are your first line of defense when you are in the sun: Hats with a wide brim, sunglasses that block UVA and UVB rays, and tightly woven clothing can offer substantial protection. Don't underestimate the power of these physical barriers.
If you are truly spending lengthy amounts of time in the sun, reapplication every two hours, or immediately after swimming or sweating, is key regardless of whether you're using an SPF 30 or an SPF 100. Relying solely on one application of a high SPF for all-day protection ultimately compromises your skin's safety.
Speaking of SPF numbers—what strength do you recommend for everyday use?
So the SPF number indicates the theoretical amount of time it would take for UVB radiation to redden your skin compared to not using any sunscreen.
SPF 30 means it would take you 30 times longer to get a sunburn than if you weren't wearing sunscreen. In ideal laboratory conditions, SPF 30 blocks about 97% of UVB rays.
SPF 100 suggests it would take 100 times longer to burn, theoretically blocking about 99% of UVB rays.
For most individuals, a broad-spectrum SPF of 30 is sufficient when applied correctly and consistently. As I noted before, SPF effectiveness is entirely dose dependent, so you have to apply enough SPF to achieve true sun protection
And lastly, your sunscreen is definitely at a more luxury price point. What is it about it that you think warrants the price tag?
My goal was to create a formula that primed and protected the skin, as I believe in simple routines that answer multiple needs at once. I wanted something as potent and luxurious as the rest of our line to fit seamlessly into your daily skincare routine, and it took several years to get right. The formula is based on our proprietary Epizinc, a non-nano zinc-only SPF technology, and also powered by our Peptide-rich Plasma, a patent-pending skincare technology composed of 24 bioidentical peptides, amino acids, and growth factors that stimulate the innate ability of skin cells to repair, renew, and regenerate. So with our Rejuvenating Moisturizing Primer Broad Spectrum SPF 30, you are getting some incredible brightening, reparative, and skin-plumping benefits while also protecting your skin from any new damage. So you are both actively preventing and treating any pre-existing sun damage on your skin with this sunscreen.
How does this hold up against East Asian spf? There is no PA rating in USA.